8-22,23 2013 Dresden

On Aug 22 we caught a train to Dresden.  We had 3 train changes on the trip which are always stressful.  Usually the connection gives us only a few minutes to get to the other train but today it wasn't bad.  We got to Dresden and found our hotel which was just off the Elbe radweg, cleaned up, and rode into the "old section" of town.  I'm sure most of you know Dresden was fire bombed by the Allies in Feb. 1945 and the city was pretty much destroyed.  Since then the city has been rebuilt back to the way it was prior to the bombing at least in the old section.  The above pic is the "Frauenkirche" which was completely destroyed.  The reconstruction didn't start till 1994 and completed in 2006.  At first they left the pile of rubble as monument to the horrors of war but then decided to rebuild after 40 yrs.  It would better serve our readers if they went to Google Earth and could get a better oversight of Dresden.  Most of the things are so big it's hard to get a pic that show the true scale.  Also look at some of the before and after pics of the bombing.  It's really quite impressive what has been done.

We were hungry so we sat down at a restaurant on the Frauenkirche square and had pizza and beer.

After dinner we walked around the old town.  This is the Stable Courtyard on the back of the "Residence"

Neu Market Square looking at the Frauenkirche.  There must be 100 restaurant lining the square and all were doing a brisk business.

The next morning we went to see the "Zwinger", probably the most famous building in Dresden.  It too was destroyed in the bombing but rebuilt quickly by the Russians and Germans.  It was originally built between 1710 and 1732 in phases.  This pic is of the Ramparts Pavillion

This is from the balustrade of the Ramparts Pavillion looking back at the Western Gate

Another pic from the Ramparts Pavillion

Ramparts Pavillion

A nymph at the "Grotto of the Nymphs"

Grotto of the Nymphs

Some nymphs around the Grotto

The Semper Opera house.  The cities have learned to charge admission now so we didn't get inside the opera house.  After this we started riding to Prague.  We are doing a section of the Elbe bike trail.  The trail goes from Prague to Magdeburg in Germany.  The whole trail is 500k long but we are only doing 214k to Prague.   

Aug 8, 9, 10 Diefurt to Forchheim

I see Johanna has been posting willy-nilly out of order.  I didn't get to complete the Altmuhl trip so here it is.  Leaving Diefurt We got on the Main-Donau-Kanal.  The Kanal, completed in 1992, is 171k long, 55meters wide at the water level, and 4 meters deep.  At the high point it is 406 meters above sea level, the highest sea going waterway in the world.  There are 16 locks with up to 25 meters of lift.  Of these 13 are designed to use water from nearby storage tanks so very little riverwater is used to lift a boat, kind of a closed system.  Whats amazing is we were riding along and come to valley and the Kanal is goes over the valley on a bridge.  One place was 1000 feet long and 100 feet off the valley floor.

The max size ship is 190 meters in length.  This one is 90meter Ship pushing another 90 meter barge.  To get thru the locks they have to disconnect and go one at a time, then reconnect at the other end of the lock.

We get off the kanal trail to visit the village of Berching.  It is an 1100 yr. old village with an intact wall surrounding it.  It's like Rothenburg am Tauber without the people.

One of several intact city gates

Some of the wall with one of the watch towers.

On the walkway around the wall.

On the walkway along the wall.  Johanna took a long walk around the wall while I sat at a sidewalk café and had a water for a change.  It was before noon and I never drink before noon much anymore.

After leaving Berching we rode up the Kanal for another 30+k and then started looking for a town to stay in.  Unfortunately the Kanal doesn't goes thru any villages here so we had to get off the trail to find something.  We chose Hilpolstein, but took the wrong turnoff and so we rode around lost for a while till I asked a farmer directions.  Hilpolstein turned out to be a nice town with the usual ruined castle and a partial wall from the old days.  This one used the existing rock for a starter.  The back of our hotel was part of the old wall and when we ate on the terrace the old wall was holding up the terrace.

Hilpolstein had some beautiful fachwerk buildings

The next morning we left Hilpolstein and got back on the Kanal.   It was raining when we left but we rode to see the nearby lake Rothsee.  Not much was happening so back on the trail.  The trail is mostly compacted chips so the water runs thru easily and the trail is rideable  even in the rain.  After passing Nurmburg and Furth we got to a point of wanting a room.  The wasn't much prospect of finding something in the next 20k so we saw a sign for a gestehaus in Burgfarrnbach.  We had a hard time finding this one too.  When we did find it it looked like it was closed.  After ringing a while somebody showed up and let us have a room for the night.  It was a Greek place and the food turned out to be good.  After dinner we walked to the local schloss which was close to the hotel.  It wasn't that good of a schloss.  The original had been bought by 2 brothers and they spent most of their fortune to tear down the old one and build this one in the late 1880's.  This pic is of the Baren Hotel where we stayed.  The bad focus is from rain.   So the next morning we rode to Forchheim and caught a train back to Bad Kissingen for a few days rest. 

Waldsassen Bav. to Bad Kissingen August 28th 2013

We left our nice Hotel in Waldsassen yesterday morning and after some hunting around found the bike trail
that would take us to the train station in Marktredwitz

We started out on a nice paved trail and

followed these trail markers

but soon the trail turned into gravel and then grass but back to pavement and so it went through the quiet countryside
with a small village here and there. It took us longer than we thought because it was very hilly.

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Wallenstein Bike trail Map

We made the train in Marktredwitz, only one change of trains. We caught a train in Schweinfurt that would take us to Ebenhausen one stop before Bad Kissingen, it was a nice sunny late afternoon and we rode the last 18 km home to Bad Kissingen. Stopped at the Greek restaurant on the way and had dinner of Kalamari.
Now waiting For Mike and Louise and Ted.
 

Waldsassen, Bavaria Tuesday August 26th 2013

We left our nice pension on the outskirts of Prag for the train station. We were a bit nervous about  finding our way, but the route was well signed and mac is an excellent map reader. It took us only an hour to get across this very big city to the station. We had booked tickets for Cheb which is very near the Bavarien Border from there we could ride to another town to catch a train were we would not have so many changes.

arriving on the Czeck Train in Chep
                                                                                                                         
We left the station and found the Wallenstein bike trail. I had Known about it. Mac was nervous, but the trail is well
signed and we were on our way and we soon crossed into Bavaria.



Waldsassen would be our goal for the day

We biked through the quiet country side of woods and fields along what used to be the closed Czeck border along the trail that was formerly a rail road and is

is now a paved bike trail

We soon reached the small Bavarien town Waldsassen with its Basilica and Monastary

Monastary

We checked into Hotel Bayrisches Koenigliches Forsthaus

had a delicious Dinner Mac had Rouladen potatoe dumplings and I had Tafelspitz with creamy horseeadish sauce and we both had salat and for dessert apfelkuecherl and of course we had beer with dinner, the food was muchbetter than anything we had in prag
Tomorrow on to Marktredwitz and the train home, only two changes
 







Photos Melnik to Prag Sunday August 25th 2013

and best of all Apfelstrudel for dessert

My dinner grilled vegetables with goat cheese and really good bread

Gulas with Knedeliky for Mac

Our Beer at dinner tonight at Kolkovnas in Prag

On the Ferry to Luzec

Since we have good internet right now I want to post some photos from yesterday

This is the sign I saw to avoid the steep narrow steps at the pipeline crossing

This is really all I can do for tonight. We walked around Prag all day to see the important sights.There were hordes of tourists and big cities are not so much our thing. Mac took lots of photos, so he will blog when he can. Right now he is asleep.
By the way by 11.00 am the weather had improved and we only had one little shower in the morning.
Tomorrow we have to bike clear across this city to the main train station to catch a train to the Bavarian border, from there will bike the Wallenstein bike trail until we find a train that takes us back to base with the least changes.
the blog got the photos mixed up again, the ferry should be first. Mac will be vexed again.

Melnik to Prag Sunday August 25th 2013

After not such a great breakfast (the first one that was not buffet style) maybe they had some people backing lunches and now serve what one gets to eat.
Anyway we left under a grey sky. It looked like rain. when I called my sister she said it had already rained there all night. Well we got on the trail and at noon sure enough it started, lightly at first but we soon got into our raingear as it got heavier. We had some good paved trail along the river, but sometimes had to deal with the likes of this


, trail through the fields

Outside the little village of Bukol we had to cross the river via pipeline bridge with very narrow steep steps seemed impossible to get the bikes up there. but than I discovered a hand written sign saying
private Ferry to Luzec and that is exactly were we had to go. Mac was doubtful but there was no choice. After  3km we reached the river and sure enough there was a small sort of a Ferry.No one was around but soon a window opened in one of the houses and a man looked out. We pointed to the other bank and for 50 krona he took us across and we continued on towards Prag. Sometimes good and sometimes really bad trail. By then it was raining pretty hard. We passed some white water kayak courses and stopped to watch some slalom races. W passed the castle Nelahazeves, huge up on the hill, here we missed the trail and had to backtrack a bit Soon came to beautiful castle Veltrusy. Its being restored. Mac took photos. walked through the Park and back on the bikes. Now we are getting really close to Prag but now the bike trail narrows into a very small path up on the steep bank of the river overgrown with brush. We we are being warned not to take it, so had to make a detour up a  very long hill via some village way up there were we biked in a strong headwind in a driving rain. on and on it went until we finally found the way back down to the river and the bike trail.We stopped to take a look at the beautiful castle Troja and now we are on the outskirts of Prag. Our pension should be coming up soon, only we can't find it on the map, so here we are cold and wet looking for the place. Tried calling but could not get through because you have to punch in a + before the number. Finally figured it out and got dirctions from the very nice owner who speaks german. we were only minutes from the place. We have a whole flat to ourselves, its bigger then my whole house and all of it for
102 euros breakfast included. Thankfully there was a restaurant close by, we were starved.
Mac had pasta, but I had trational Bohemien-Czeck food, Meat in a creamy sauce with knedeliky
(dumplings) not unlike the food I am used to.
August 26th
Monday Morning
Its a grey sky, but it's not raining we are checking out the city after breakfast. Mac is still asleep.


Melnik, Czeck Republic Sunday August 25th 2013

After taking some photos of Litomerice we headed for the trail. Another beautiful sunny warm day.
We rode on nice paved trail along the river, but also had to ride a bit on highway, not much traffic and also had some stretches of miserable dirt trails with lots of pot holed. We stopped in Roudnice to take a look at the town and Hrad(castle) which was huge build from red sandstone. we had a tour of the wine cellar and wine tasting was included in the admission. the Hrad dates back to the 11 century.
We rode on and reached the confluence of the Labe(Elbe) and Vltava(Moldau) at Melnik were we stayed at the Hotel Jaro.
Still on the 54 km trail we found only one little place to have a beer and some breadsticks. To reach the town we had to ride up a very steep hill but the views from the terrace was worth it. Had Dinner at the square, Apfelstrudel is really good here everywere and we order it after every meal. Otherwise haven't really found great food , the Italiens have sort of taken over here too with many  pizzerias and gelaterias. The beer however is very good when we can get it.
We are on our way to Prag today, so have to get going. Mac will blog with pics when we get beack to base
Ahoi till then




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August 24th Czech Republic

Just to keep you posted we left base on Wednesday the 21st on the train to Dresden 3 changes and once in the wrong carriage left us pretty worn out after 6 hours travel.Biking seems a lot easier.
But we already had our hotel booked near the bike trail close to the old city center. We did walk around a bit and had dinner at a sidewalk café. Next morning visited all the important sides. Dresden is a beautiful City. Mac will post photos when we can. We started on the trail always along the river with castles above. After a bit of difficulty we found lodging in the small Village of Krippen, in an old Mill converted to a hotel. Left there yesterday morning and soon crossed Czech border. The trail took us along the river and after 75km without finding any Biergarten along the trail arrived in the town of Litomerice were we spend the night at Hotel Apollon. Now we had a wonderful breakfast and we are hitting the trail. Should be in Prag on Sunday the 25th.More later.

8-6-2013 Arnsburg to Diefurt

After leaving Arnsburg we passed by the Bohming church St John the Baptist.  There were 2 churchs here, the first built in 1189 and it was torn down and this one was built in the later half of the 15th century.  In the field by the church was where another Roman fort was built in the 2nd century.  Across the river are the ruins of a watchtower.

Burg Kipfenberg.  There is a roman museum in the castle which Johanna wanted to see.  It was a steep ride to it but it was worth it.  Lots of info on the limes of the Romans.   Most of the castle is still in private hands is being lived in.

In Kinding we saw a little fortified church along the trail so we went and looked at it.  It all whitewashed and clean but there was nowhere to get a decent pic.  Here is Johanna on the staircase leading to the Organ.

Coming into Beilngries there is the obligatory castle on the hill, Schloss Hirschburg.  We stopped in the town square and had beer but the sun was in the position that pics wouldn't turn out.

In the village we stopped at the St. Vitus church.  It had 15th century fresco in a side chapel.  In the part it shows Adam and Eve on the left.  In the middle a person is being judged and the devil is hanging on the scale at to add a little weight in his favor.  On the right the damned are being led to hell.  It includes a Pope and a bishop.

Another part of the fresco show what I thought was medieval medicine but it turns out to be torture.  On the top a guy is getting his teeth pulled out with a pliers.  On the bottom frame a man is having his intestines rolled up on a spit.

The altar of the St. Vitus church.  Fancy for a little village church.

This is our hotel in Dietfurt.  Rebuilt after the 30 yrs war.  and has been a gestehaus for several hundred years.  Just as we were getting our bags off the bikes 25 women showed up on bikes and were staying there too.  Quite a cluster getting the bikes in the storage.   I didn't think the place had that many rooms.

This is a pic in the room showing the thickness of the walls.  Plus it was a small window.  No breeze and it was warm.  The floor sloped toward the Altmuhl and was just old planks and everything creaked.  Other doors in the hallway were for people under 5 feet.  There was a circular stairway down and it wasn't very high either.  I was always watching not to hit my head on something

8-5-2013 Pappenheim to Arnsburg

We went up to Burg Pappenheim but it was closed.  It dates back to 1140 and is now a museum showing the history of the House of Pappenheim.

At Dietfurt the Altmuhl valley narrows and there are limestone outcroppings.  Here is what is called the 12 apostles, 12 limestone towers along the river.

At Solnhofen the fossil Archaeopteryx was found and one of the first fossils to show the evolution from reptile to birds.  It's a big fossil area.

Bike trail coming into Hagenacker

Trail leading into Dollnstein.  Riding into the village you can see tower built on a rock outcrop.  Around 900 the was a fort with a wooden palisade  here surrounding the outcrop.  By 1100 the wood was replaced with a stone wall.  A little later a castle was built on the outcrop, but has mostly fallen into disrepair.  They had a nice museum inside some of the remaining castle.  In 2007 a bag containing 4000 coins dating from the middle ages was dug up in the castle.

Coming into Eichstatt is the Willibaldsburg.  Around 1355 the Prince Bishop of Eichstatt wanted to have a fortified castle for protection.  In 1725 they built a residence in the town and moved out of the castle mostly.  Today it's a Jurassic museum.

This is the fountain in front of the Residence

And the guard station at the entrance to the Residence.

At the village of Pfunz there is another Roman ruins "Romerkastell Vetoniana".  Unfortuanately it was up a steep hill so we didn't go to it.  But there at the river crossing there was a roman bridge which we had to cross.

It was clouding up and threatening rain so we stopped in the village of Arnsburg.  The town has the usual castle ruins on the stone outcrop.  We called ahead to reserve a room at the schloss hotel not knowing that it would have been a hell of a climb to the place. Luckily they were on vacation.  We ended up at nice gestehaus in the village.  It did rain later that night.